The Complete Beginner's Guide to Composting
Starting a compost pile can feel overwhelming. Do you need expensive equipment? What's the difference between browns and greens? And most importantly—how do you avoid that awful sewage smell that some compost piles develop?
When I first started composting, I had no idea what I was doing. My tumbler system smelled like a full-on sewage facility, and I was completely confused about ratios and materials. But I kept at it, learned from my mistakes, and now I make beautiful, healthy compost for my garden every season.
Today, I'm sharing everything I wish I knew when I started, so you can skip the nasty mistakes and go straight to success.
And if you would rather watch the video then skip to the end.
Choosing Your Composting Location
Before you begin, you need to find the right spot for your compost pile. Here are the key considerations:
Out of the way: Place it where you won't trip over it during daily activities
Hidden from view: Compost piles can get messy and unsightly, so consider your sight-lines
In the shade: Consistent sun exposure will dry out your pile and stop the composting process
Pile vs. Tumbler: Which System is Right for You?
There are countless ways to compost, but let's focus on the two most beginner-friendly methods.
The Open Pile Method
An open pile can be placed directly on the ground, though I personally prefer using a pallet. Raising the pile off the ground allows excess moisture to seep down below, preventing waterlogging.
Pros:
Affordability: It's free to start a ground pile, and most stores will give you pallets for free
Unlimited size: You're not constrained by container dimensions—make as much compost as you need
Cons:
Aesthetics: Not the prettiest option if you host garden parties
Pest attraction: This method is most likely to attract rats and mice
Best for: Budget-conscious gardeners who need large quantities of compost and don't have significant pest problems.
The Tumbler System
This is how I started composting before I decided I needed to scale up production.
Pros:
Better appearance: Easily tucks into any corner of your yard
Enclosed system: Much less likely to attract critters
Cons:
Cost: Even the least expensive tumblers start at $50
Maintenance: Requires spinning at least once a week to maintain airflow
Harvest difficulty: The enclosed design can make it challenging to dig out finished compost
Best for: Gardeners who prioritize aesthetics and pest control over volume and cost.
Understanding Carbon and Nitrogen Balance
Regardless of which system you choose, successful composting requires the same fundamental balance: you can't just throw food scraps in and expect perfect compost. You need the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen.
Why I Don't Use "Browns and Greens"
You've probably heard composting described in terms of browns and greens. I prefer thinking in terms of carbon and nitrogen because some brown materials (like manure and coffee grounds) are actually nitrogen-rich, which makes the color-based terminology confusing.
The ideal ratio: Two-thirds carbon to one-third nitrogen
Carbon-Rich Materials (Dry, Dead Matter)
Wood chips
Shredded cardboard
Dried dead leaves
Dead, dry plant material (if it bends and snaps immediately, it's carbon)
Nitrogen-Rich Materials (Moist, Living Matter)
Vegetable scraps
Fruit scraps
Cut grass
Coffee grounds
Fresh plant matter (cut into small pieces for faster breakdown)
What NOT to Compost
As a beginner, your pile likely won't get hot enough to kill seeds and pathogens, so avoid:
Weeds and seeded plants: I learned this the hard way when mulberries in my compost resulted in mulberry bushes sprouting everywhere in my garden the following year
Meat or dairy: While these will eventually break down, they'll attract flies and pests before they do
The Easy Bucket Method for Kitchen Scraps
If you're composting primarily to handle kitchen waste, here's a simple system:
Fill a five-gallon bucket three-quarters full with carbon materials (wood chips, shredded cardboard, or straw)
Add your nitrogen materials (food scraps) on top until full
Transfer the entire bucket to your compost pile
This pre-mixing ensures you're maintaining the proper carbon-to-nitrogen ratio with every addition.
Building Your Compost Pile
Setting Up the Base
If using a pallet, cover it with weed barrier cloth to prevent compost from falling through the slats while still allowing excess moisture to drain.
Layering Strategy
I prefer putting food scraps down first, then covering them with carbon material. This keeps flies away and maintains a cleaner appearance.
The Critical Element Most People Get Wrong: Moisture
This is the biggest mistake I see with my clients' compost piles—they're simply not wet enough.
In addition to carbon and nitrogen, your pile needs two other essential components: air and water. Water is crucial for breaking down organic matter.
The squeeze test: A healthy compost pile should feel like a damp sponge when squeezed. If it's dry and crumbly, it needs water.
Ongoing Moisture Management
Check your pile weekly
Water if it's too dry
Skip watering if it's too wet
Cover your pile with a tarp when not actively working on it to:
Retain moisture
Block excessive sun exposure
Prevent rain from over-saturating the pile
Turning Your Pile
There's ongoing debate about turning frequency. Some experts insist on monthly turning to aerate the pile and speed breakdown. However, as a beginning gardener, this can feel overwhelming.
My recommendation: Turn it just once during the entire process. It won't break down quite as quickly, but it's much more manageable.
For tumbler users: Spin your tumbler at least once weekly.
When to Stop Adding Materials
Tumbler system: When it's full, stop adding.
Pile system: Consider how much compost you actually need for your garden. At some point, enough is enough—otherwise you'll never finish your pile.
Knowing When Your Compost is Ready
Your compost is finished when it:
Looks like good-quality soil
May contain a few small sticks
Has no recognizable food scraps
Not ready to use it yet? No problem. Finished compost stores well. Keep it covered, out of the sun and elements, and maintain moisture throughout the winter. It'll be ready whenever you are.
Using Your Finished Compost
Compost is garden gold. Use it:
As topsoil on garden beds
To boost seed starter mixes
In potted plants
Anywhere plants grow
Troubleshooting: The Sewage Smell Problem
If your compost starts smelling like sewage or vomit (whether in a pile or tumbler), your pile has gone anaerobic—a fancy way of saying there's no oxygen left.
The cause: Too much nitrogen or too much water
The solution:
Add more carbon material
For tumblers: spin several times
For piles: give it a thorough turning
How Much Compost Do You Need?
Let's say you have a raised bed that's 8 feet long and 3 feet wide. I recommend adding 2 inches of compost every season.
The calculation:
Length × Width × Depth (in feet) = 8 × 3 × 0.167 (2 inches)
Divide by 27 to convert cubic feet to cubic yards
Result = amount of compost needed in cubic yards
Most compost is sold by the cubic yard, which equals 3 feet wide × 3 feet long × 3 feet deep.
Just Get Started
Composting doesn't have to be perfect. Whether you choose a tumbler or pile system, the most important step is beginning. Start small, learn from your mistakes, and you'll soon be producing rich, healthy compost that your garden will love.
Remember: if your pile smells bad, add carbon and turn it. If it's too dry, water it. If it's taking forever to break down, turn it more frequently. Composting is forgiving—you'll figure it out as you go.
Ready to take your composting to the next level? Stay tuned for the intermediate guide where we'll cover hot composting, compost tea, and more advanced techniques.
